Kelly's Wine Blog: Grape Variety Report

Grape Variety Report - Sangiovese

“In bad years, vintners vehemently dismiss it as una brutta bestia (“an ugly beast”). In good years, it is elevated to the enological equivalent of sainthood.” – Monica Larner, Wine Enthusiast Magazine, 03/02/2011

Sangiovese is Italy’s most widely planted red grape varietal, primarily planted in the Tuscany region. Sangiovese gets its name from the Latin Sanguis Jovis, which means “blood of Jove” (Jove being the Supreme God in Roman mythology). Sangiovese grapes grow best in sunny, hot vineyard conditions during the growing season. The Sangiovese grape also responds strongly to individual locations and the corresponding terroir. Sangiovese wines accordingly expresses characteristics of the region where it is grown.

While the Sangiovese grape itself is a dark purple hue in color, wines produced from Sangiovese tend to rarely be dark in color. Also, the initial purple-red color of Sangiovese wines tend to turn into a more “brick color” characteristic around the rim after aging the wine for 4-5 years.

Italy’s focus on Sangiovese dates back to the 21^st century. At this time, Sangiovese comprised roughly one out of every ten vines on the entire Italian peninsula. Also, roughly 30 years ago, Sangiovese was a major grape player in the “Super Tuscan revolution." When Sangiovese is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or Syrah, what became coined as a "Super Tuscan” wine is produced. These “Super Tuscans” do not conform to the region’s DOCG blending requirements. Initially, these “Super Tuscans” made with Sangiovese earned high scores and praises from wine critics such as Robert Parker and Wine Spectator. This warm reception from wine critics lead to an increase in demand, as well as an increase in price, for “Super Tuscans,” like the ones Sangiovese can be used to produce, from Italy.

Sangiovese has at least 14 distinct clones, 3 in particular of which are high in demand. The first clone, called Sangioveto or Grosso, is used to produce Chianti. The second clone, Brunello, produces Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines. Also, Brunello DOCG regulations require that wines must be made exclusively from this clone of Sangiovese. Additionally, Brunello wines must be aged at a mimunum for two years in a barrel with four years of aging in total before being allowed to be sold on the market. The third clone, Prugnolo, is used in the production of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines.

As alluded to before, Sangiovese is virtually synonymous with Tuscany's red wines. The most famous wine from this region is Chianti. In the 1890s, Baron Ricasoli established the basic recipe blend for Chianti. In this blend, Sangiovese averages 70% as the varietal base. The other 30% is composed of 15% canaiolo and 15% trebbiano. Today, according to Italian rules and regulations, the minimum amount of Sangiovese allowed in bottles of Chianti is 90%.

Outside of Tuscany, but still in Italy, Sangiovese is planted in Lazio, Umbria, Marche, and Corsica. In Corsica, Sangiovese takes on a new namem Nielluccio, and has a distinctive maquis characteristic. Additionally, on a more international scale, Sangiovese is planted in California and France.

Turning back to the grape itself, Sangiovese grapes are slow to mature and consequently ripen late in the growing season. Also, due to the grape's relatively thin skins and longer vine time, Sangiovese has a tendency to rot in damper conditions. Sangiovese additionally does not mature well if planted above an elevation of 1,500 feet. Lastly, when planed in vineyards with limestone soils, wines made from these Sangiovese grapes tend to express more forceful aromas.

Sangiovese wines are best consumed within 2-4 years of the vintage year. The quality of these wines can have more variation than wines produced from other grapes. Fortunately however, since the 1980s, improved wine making techniques have initiated a notable shift towards more quality-oriented crafted Sangiovese wines. The higher quality Sangiovese wines are well known for high acids, firm tannins, and balanced structure.

In terms of Sangiovese wine flavor profiles, dominant flavors associated with Sangiovese range from cherry, plum, and strawberry to cinnamon and vanilla on the palate. Other common descriptors of Sangiovese wines include black stone fruit, tomato leaf, and dried herbs. Additionally, aging Sangiovese wines in oak barrels adds characteristics of wild raspberry.

Wines made with Sangiovese as the predominant grape pair well with chicken, red meat, fish, lamb, pastas, or well-aged cheeses. Also, Sangiovese wines are best matched with wild game and vegetables, such as zucchini, roasted or grilled with olive oil, herbs, or garlic.